The Tii Project - 1972 BMW 2002Tii Restoration by Mars

1st, I removed the roundel from the front hood. The roundel on a 72 simply pops out. You have to stick a flat screw driver or other device behind it to pry it out. A good trick is to lay a credit card on the body so if the screw driver slips it goes on the card and doesn't scratch the paint.

Next, I opened the hood and began to remove the outer aluminum hood trim from the inside. The chrome strips are attached from behind with a few plastic "poppers" and several 10mm nuts. I also removed the rubber molding that runs across the hood on the underside.

I also chose to remove the side hinges on the hood since I plan on having the
inside of the hood and engine painted. These were also attached with 10mm bolts and lock washers. The hinges have 2 bolts per side (4 total for left and right).

I began to remove the foam padding as well. In one of the pics above you can see that the foam was in good shape, but with having the hood painted I needed to remove it. I plan on replacing it with OEM materials later on if they are available. No secret here, just alot of scrubbing and scraping to get them off.

Then, I removed the hood off of the car. By using a 13mm wrench and a 17mm wrench on opposing sides, I loosened the bolts on the side support braces for the hood (1 per side, 2 total). Do not remove them right away, just loosen everything up until you are ready to pull off the hood. Next, I loosened the bolts to the front lower hinges in front on the hood. The hinges have 3 bolts per side and also require a 13mm socket to remove them. Once all the bolts were loose, I removed the hood. It is best to have 2 people when removing the hood to prevent it from accidentally falling when the bolts are loosened.

To remove the side turn signals, use a phillips screw driver and simply loosen the 2 screws on each side. You will need to undo any wiring attached to it. Some models have clean "push button" connectors where you push in and slide the wires out like mine, but yours may be sodered on or twist tied with tape. Whatever you have, undo the wires.

Next, the side marker reflectors (shown in the pic to the left) directly below the turn signals come out by loosenening the flathead screw as shown in the picture. Once the orange outer cover is removed, you will have access to 2 phillips screws underneath which will allow you to remove it from the fender. There are no wires to this one as it is merely a reflector.

Now with the hood off, it's much easier to start disassembling engine components. My first item was the battery. This should have been the very first step, especially before removing any electrics like I did. This way you can avoid the chance of tapping a +12v to any source of ground and causing damage to your parts or worse. The battery came out with 13mm nuts on each terminal. I had to wiggle mine out as it's a pretty tight fit.

With the battery out of the way I preceded to remove the air filter assembly. Undo the 3 clasps on the front of the air box, and remove the first piece. The entire unit is held in place by 4 10mm bolts that bolt into the side of the bracket assembly that is built into the car. After loosening those, remove the 2 hoses that are attached and wiggle the piece out. You will need to loosen the clamp that runs into the intake system with a screw driver as well.

The teardown continues. Today I removed the front end of the car. I could've had more done but I spent the day running around doing errands and didn't get back til late in the afternoon. I sold a spare 320is motor today to Matt Sedlak of Maximillian Importing down in Maryland. I will use the money gained towards project costs. I also picked up my engine hoist and moved it down from the other garage.

My car came equipped with dealer installed fog lights, so I had to undo the wiring to the fog lamps as it prevented me from pulling off the bumper. There was a 13mm nut that holds the fogs to the bumper. I opted to cut the wiring to them as I know later on I'm going to redo the wiring anyway.

To remove the front bumper as mentioned previously, you will need a 13mm socket for all 6 bolts. I had a hard time removing the brackets behind the nose. Although the brackets should easily come loose and slip out, I had to struggle with mine and wound up removing the bumper itself off of the brackets. The next few steps explain how I did this. The picture on the left shows the bumper after it was removed. Keep in mind most cars will have some degree of rust on the bolts so I used liquid wrench to loosen the nuts prior to removing them with a socket wrench.

Again, you can see the bumper removed off of the brackets unlike I originally intended. At first, I couldn't figure out how to take them off so then I consulted my favorite 02 forums (2002faq board and Roadfly - Thanks a million guys!!!). Once the guys told me how to remove them, I went back and tried again and finally realized that the reason they didn't come off in the first place was because my brackets were bent from a previous front end minor accident. Already having removed the 13mm nuts, I began to wiggle the brackets up and down, back and forth and then the carriage bolts finally fell out allowing me to slide the brackets forward.

Next, I continued taking things apart. I removed all the front grills. The left and right grills come off by simply removing 4 phillips screws. There are also two j hooks with thumbscrews on each end you have to remove behind the grill itself. Then, they simply fall out. The center grill comes off by removing 2 10mm nuts which sit behind the grill. One is towards the top and the other is at the bottom end. You can kind of see in the 3rd pic below where the nuts on the grill are.

Finally, I pulled out the headlight assemblies. The headlight assemblies are held on by four 8mm nuts on each corner. Be sure to undo the wiring to the headlights first. Be careful as these are very prone to breaking off. I broke one off while unscrewing the nut on it due to it's age and rust. Again, use some kind of solvent like liquid wrench to try and loosen them first and eliminate some of the rust. As usual, I labeled and placed all items in bags as this will help ensure I have all I need when putting it back together. A good tip is to label all the remaining wiring in the car as well as you'll most likely forget what goes where come time to rebuild.

I also removed the left and right side horns. These also come off with one 13mm nut and bolt on each one. I tested these to make sure they worked by hooking up a 12v+ and negative to each one. No sense in cleaning them up and putting them back in if they don't work. Turns out my right side horn is no good. The horns never worked since I got the car.

Now, on to removing the radiator. I undid the hose clamps to the radiator (flathead screw driver) and removed both the upper and lower radiator hoses. I placed a drain pan below the car to catch the coolant as it leaked out. Once I removed the hoses, I proceeded to remove the 4 bolts that hold the radiator to the car. They are placed on each corner of the radiator and are fairly easy to get to. Simply loosen them up and lift the radiator upwards.

With the radiator out, I then began to disconnect the wiring to the alternator. The alternator has both an 8mm nut and a 10mm nut on it that you need to remove. I found it easiest to remove the bottom 10mm nut from under the car since the battery tray was in my way. After that, you will also have to pull out a plastic wiring harness on the alternator.

I pulled off some of the original stickers and even drilled out the rivets holding the VIN tag on the car. I'm hoping I can get my VIN tag replaced or redone somewhere as mine is quite old and worn. I also began to pull out the wiring. There are 2 big grommets which hold the wiring harnesses to the lights. I popped those out and fed the wiring through the cut out to pull the wires out. Now the front end is free and clear of any obstacles and wiring.

The work continues.... This is a bad day. I didn't write down or log what I did today so I'm going to do my best from memory here. This is exactly the kind of thing one should avoid during a restoration as I know whatever details I don't have for this day will come back and bite me in the ass. Come time to rebuild I will probably forget something that should've been documented on this day. Today my goal is to remove <---------- that engine from my car.

After pulling some of the wiring out of the way, I continued to remove other items from the engine compartment. I took a break from the wiring and removed the exhaust manifold heat shield. Mine was rusty and crumbly and practically fell off on it's own. There were 4 10mm bolts that needed removing and then it just came right off.

Pic 1 - I loosened and removed the fuel filter hose that attaches to the Kugelfischer fuel distributor. It's merely a clamp that comes off with a flathead screw driver. To avoid any gasoline spillage, I plugged up the fuel line with an old bolt I found laying around.

Pic 2 - There is a hose that runs along where shown in the diagram. This needs to be removed. This also comes off simply with a screw driver while loosening the clamp.

Pic 3 - There is another hose that attaches to the rear of the engine block. It's kinda hard to get at, but loosen that clamp and pull out as shown.

Pic 4 - Next, remove the throttle linkage. They are simply push pins and poppers to remove these. Accelerator linkage rod not shown below.

I opted to remove the distributor to simplify taking the motor out. Although the motor can be pulled with the distributor on, in some cases it rubs against the firewall and I wanted to avoid damaging it. To remove the distributor, simply unclamp the screw and pull the distributor straight up. Remove all of the electrical connections to it and label them as "distributor" so you know what they are later. Make sure to place the rotor in the top dead center (TDC) position when removing. Next, I proceeded to remove water pump fan. These are held on by 4 10mm bolts. Unscrew them and pull the fan straight out forward. It is really easy with the radiator already out of the way.

I positioned my engine hoist over the motor to prepare for it's removal. I used two strong steel bolts and used the front and rear hinges on the motor and simply ran the bolt(s) through.

Pic 2 - Then, I loosened the nuts/bolts from the exhaust hanger bracket. 2 13mm nuts hold it onto the trannie along with the 2 13mm nuts on the exhaust clamp.

Pic 3 - There are 2 13mm nuts on the trannie cross member which also need removing. The pic is crude as it was hard to take pics under the car plus I was really dirty at this point.

Pic 4 - Remove the 2 13mm nuts from the driveshaft bracket as you will need to pull the driveshaft out from the guibo.

The guibo was next. Remove the 4 13mm bolts to the driveshaft to seperate the driveshaft from the trannie. You need only remove the 4 driveshaft bolts and not the other 4 bolts that bind the guibo to the trannie itself. I removed the shifter linkage arm (13mm) from the trannie. After that, I wiggled the trannie for a bit as it was stubborn, and after a little while, I pulled the trannie off of the motor.

Pic 1 - I loosened the left and right side motor mounts. I believe they were 13mm and 15mm, I can't recall from memory. After that, I looked over to make sure that all was clear and began hoist out the engine slowly. It helps to angle it with the front high as much as possible. I had to swing it over to the passenger side a bit to clear the battery tray and the surrounding sheet metal but finally with some patience (and cursing) I pulled the motor out. You can see in the pic I cheated a bit.. I wasn't able to remove the downpipe screws from the center resonator, so I cut the exhaust off. I have a brand new exhaust so I really didn't care to fuss with it. :)

Pic 2 - A shot of the engine and trans out of the car.

Pic 3 - A shot of the engine bay with engine removed.

Pic 4 - Front end with engine removed.

With the engine completely out, I can now turn to removing other smaller items from the engine bay. I started off by removing some of the screws along the sides holding several miscellaneous wiring. Most of them are simple phillips screws.

Pic 1 - I swung over to the passenger side and removed the ignition coil. It simply comes off by loosening the clamp(s). I undid the wiring as well making note of where everything goes.

Pic 2 - A shot of the Bosch ignition coil removed.

Pic 3 - Swinging back over to the right, I loosened the single phillips screw holding the fusebox in place.

Pic 4 - I carefully started to undo all of the wiring and began taking notes recording all of the color codes and pin connections. Without this, anyone is pretty much screwed.

The next section will cover in detail my pin layout for the fusebox. I took the time and trouble to map it all out only to find out it was already there for me in my shop manual. Oh well, I'm still going to post this here for all those of you who may not have the original shop manual.

Legend

Pins 1-10 start from the upper left hand corner in the pic (gray/yellow section)
Pins 11-17 starts at the top of the second column (gray/green section)
Pins 18-24 start at top of third column (red/yellow section)
Pins 25-28 would be the last column and end with pin 28 on the lower right hand side of the pic (purple section)

Note that this is based on my 1972tii - Your model's pin configuration may differ

Pin 1 Grey-Yellow	Pin 15 Yellow
Pin 2 Grey-Yellow	Pin 16 Blue-Red
Pin 3 Grey-White	Pin 17 Blue-Black
Pin 4 Grey-White	Pin 18 Red-Yellow
Pin 5 Yellow-Black	Pin 19 Red-White
Pin 6 Yellow-Blue	Pin 20 Green-Brown
Pin 7 Blue-Brown	Pin 21 Green-Blue
Pin 8 Blue-Brown	Pin 22 Green-White
Pin 9 Blue-Violet	Pin 23 Violet-Black
Pin 10 Blue-Violet	Pin 24 Violet-Black
Pin 11 Grey-Black	Pin 25 Red
Pin 12 Grey-Black	Pin 26 Green
Pin 13 Grey-Green	Pin 27 Green
Pin 14 Grey-Green	Pin 28 Violet