The Tii Project - 1972 BMW 2002Tii Restoration by Mars

Here's how to repair your Tii's dash clock. This method only applies to the early 2002tii clocks (1972-1973). 1974 Model Tii's used a newer electric version. Typically these clocks hold up very well and are quite reliable (although not very accurate when in operation). The most common cause of failure is a fused wire that blows over time. The following below will show you how to fix this most common of causes. This is to be used for reference purposes only. This instructional how to is not to be held liable for any damages caused to your vehicle. Use at your own risk!

First thing needed to be done obviously is to remove the clock from the dash. This can be rather difficult as there is limited room to work with. There are a number of ways to try and get in from behind the clock and which one you choose will vary on how big or small your hands are. Access from behind through the glovebox is the most common, but certainly not the easiest.

Another option is to move out the console. This is the best way as you will be able to get in from behind the clock and underneath better.

The third option for those with small hands (or who have an assistant with small hands) can reach from the top of the dash through the buzzer hole cutout (if your model has the buzzer, not all do) and loosen the screws that hold the clock together.

The clock has a small bracket that holds it in place and uses two plastic (or metal) thumbscrews. To remove the clock reach behind with one of the methods above and loosen the thumbscrews. Be ready to catch them as they most likely will fall due to the limited hand room behind the clock.

Here is a view of the clock from the floor up and behind the console. The glove box was also removed for this picture. This pic shows the black plastic thumbnail screws that hold the clock in place.

Once you successfully loosen the screws the clock will simply pop out towards you. Be sure to grab the bracket the screws go into so it doesn't get lost behind the console. This is another reason I recommend removing the console. After popping it out, simply undo the light bulb, power and negative wires.

Take note of which wires go where. The ground wire (brown) goes to the left of the bulb if you are looking directly from behind the clock. The bottom wire (red) with the spade connector is the power wire (12v +). It can be confusing as the ground connection has a 12v engraving below it. This is not an indicator of which connection goes where but rather an indication that it runs on 12v +. This usually confuses most folks.

Once out, the next few steps that follow are the most difficult. To gain access to the clock's internal workings you will need to remove the front bezel. This is usually a black trim ring in front but for some it may be silver (such as on the early Ti models). Carefully using a thin flat head screwdriver begin to pry up from under and behind the bezel. Take your time. Patience will be your friend here as you don't want to damage the bezel ring.

After slowly going around a few times you should be able to pop the ring off of the clock. Here is a pic of the clock with the front bezel removed. Take note that the ring has notches in it that match a notched area on the inner bezel of the clock.

Next, loosen the nuts at the rear of the clock. The nuts are made so that the screws run through them so you will not be able to just use a screwdriver. You can use a small flathead and get at the nuts from one of the sides or a lightweight set of pliers to remove them if they are stubborn. Then, after loosening the nuts slide the clock from out of it's metal casing.

Now with complete access to the internals of the clock begin inspecting the clock slowly. Look over the clock near where the copper coil is and around that area but towards the top of the clock. You should see two small tabs. If they are not connected chances are this is the cause of your clock's failure. These tabs normally have a small wire that connects the two and acts as sort of a "fused jumper".

All that remains is to solder the two connections back together with a small wire. Use a low temp solder and take your time. I recommend using an 18-20 gauge wire. After that, make sure that you clean the clock well. Use canned air spray to blow out small particles and be sure to check the needles in front as they can sometimes bind and prevent the clock's movement. In the pic to the left you can see where the solder was made and where the tabs referenced above are located.

Putting it back together is the reverse of the steps you took above to take it apart. When reinstalling the front bezel, again, take note of the notches and line them up to the clock. With the notches in place I used a small set of needle nose pliers and very carefully crimped the bezel back over the casing.

With the notches in place I used a small set of needle nose pliers and very carefully crimped the bezel back over the casing. Here is what it looked like after it was reassembled.